The OTHER Barcelona Architect

Art Nouveau was an art period full of great architectural works.Of course, the architect most remembered for that period is Gaudi. (see Archives, January, 2014). Another architect known for his Art Nouveau works was Victor Horta, (1861-1947). (My blog of March 14, 2011 about Horta remains one of my most popular all-time blogs.) Like Gaudi, Horta's architecture and designs exemplified the Art Nouveau movement.


However, there was someone else noted for his architectural Art Nouveau style, and like Gaudi, his reputation was built in Barcelona. That architect was Lluís Domènech i Montaner (1850-1923).

Domènech was not only an architect, he was also a professor at the Barcelona School of Architecture. (Gaudi was one of his students.)
In fact, if you've ever been to Barcelona or viewed the famous architecture of that city, you have oohed and aahed over Domènech's architecture. Even UNESCO has awarded his most important works as "World Heritage" sites.

Here is one of the sites so designated. It is Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau (Hospital of the Holy Cross and Saint Paul).  Domènech designed it with the patient very much in mind. He made sure to allow for windows and views. He sunk the service areas below ground level so that patients and guests could have street access to the gardens. It consists of 20 pavilions on 40-acres of park. (The complex is being restored. It's expected to re-open in 2016.)

 The other one of Domènech's amazing architectural buildings recognized by UNESCO is the Palau de la Música Catalana (Palace of Catalan Music). This is the one that he was most involved in the interior design. (It was very difficult to find a photo that showed the entire scope of the interior.) The last image shows the combination of mosaics and sculptures of musicians that surround the orchestra stage.

As with so many of my blogs about artists, this is only an introduction to Domènech and his works. If you're ever in Barcelona, remember that Gaudi wasn't the only exciting and delightful Art Nouveau architect.

Camille Pissarro: A Loving Tribute

I am in love with Camille Pissarro (1830-1903). I have been for a long time. No, not romantic love, more like the adoration of a child sitting at the feet of a wise and experienced father.


You can imagine my joy to find an exhibit in Barcelona of 67 of his paintings. 67! I moved up close to his paintings trying to find him in his colors, impasto and other techniques. (I think I drove the security guards crazy.) Steeped in the environment of his paintings, I thought about his amazing output, political courage and gentle, fatherly personality.

His work ethic was boundless. No matter what was happening in his personal life, he painted. He painted outdoors as much as possible and mostly without consideration to the weather. When he could not paint outside, he stood at the window and painted.

Even in later life, with his vision impaired from a recurring eye infection, he painted. His industriousness was enough to eventually support his large family. (Wife, 8 children and household help)




Art was central to him, yet  Pissarro was a well-read and informed man. He understood the original meaning of anarchy (without a monarch/leader). Although he believed in non-violence, his leftist leanings brought him to the attention of the police. It was very dangerous for Pissarro for he had known artist who were jailed for their leftist beliefs. (Trial of the Thirty, 1894)

Another reason I admire him is the consistent description of him by his contemporaries as "fatherly." Gauguin, who studied with him, referred to M. Pissarro as "...one of my masters and I would not deny him." Cezanne walked miles just to paint with Pissarro. Mary Cassatt referred to him as "a teacher who could have taught the stones to draw correctly." It was his " gentle, kind, and warm-hearted personality" that held the Impressionists together.

The Impressionist Group consisted of 15 artists - each different in personality and temperament from the others. Yet, it was Pissarro who held the group together. Not only would his legacy be his role as "Father of the Impressionists," but also as the creative force of children and grandchildren who followed him in art.

Most notable among his progeny are: His son, Lucien Pissarro, a famous printer, grandchildren Claude Bonin-Pissarro, Henri Bonin-Pissarro, and Orovida Pissarro, all painters, and great grandchilden, Frédéric Bonin-Pissarro, painter and Joachim Pissarro, Head of Curator of Drawing & Painting, MOMA as well as professor of art at Hunter College.

Here's a glimpse of his art - another reason I am in love with him. And what is your take on M. Pissarro?

Amid the Beauty of Barcelona

It's both the first and the last - first blog of 2014 and last blog on Spain. This time, it's about fabulous Barcelona.

As you may recall, I was not really interested in departing out of Barcelona. A big city was not where I wanted to be. Barcelona seduced me with art.

 Before I explain how, let's pick up the trip in Granada where I said, "Good-bye to Al Andalucia and the time of the Moors" and boarded the plane that would take me to Barcelona.

Once again, my hosts provided me with info, maps, suggestions and recommendations. Other than Gaudi's architecture, I didn't have a firm plan of what to do or see. As it happens, the hosts' home was perfectly located. In the next block was CaixaForum, a short walk led to Plaza Espanya (the old bullfighting ring - now a mall), and the Metro to the Beach and the Boqueria.

Plaza Espanya (old bullfighting ring doesn't show in top photo - photo of ring in lower picture)

The CaixaForum is an art and social projects museum. The outside reflects the architecture of the factory, but the inside is very modern. On the first floor was a fascinating (and free) exhibit of award-winning inventions to improve the lives of people in 3rd-world areas. The inventions considered everything from clean water filtration to keeping a premature baby warm.These inventions used little to no electricity. Very interesting exhibit. Then, with my paid ticket in hand, I headed upstairs to the art and the major exhibit.

If ever I was given a welcome by Barcelona, it was found in the major exhibit - 67 paintings by one of my favorite impressionists.Imagine 67 paintings by Camille Pissarro! It was heaven for me. He was considered the Father of the Impressionists (see Archives, May, 2011 on the right of this blog.) 

This exhibit was so large and I was  grateful for the seating available in some of the rooms. So many galleries don't provide a place to sit. It's such a good idea in a large exhibit.

There was also something else I'd never experienced in a museum - a separate area divided by a temporary wall. As you walked around the wall, you entered an area with a complete chronology of Pissarro's life, residences and paintingl. In the area, there was a long table and chairs. On the table were published books about Pissarro in a variety of languages. The books were affixed so you couldn't take them, but you were welcome to sit and read. Double heaven - if there is such a thing!

The next day, I took the Metro to Las Ramblas - a street about 3/4 mile in length reaching from the seaport to the city center. It's a street that's always in motion with tourists, locals, floral stands, visual and performing artists and a huge indoor market - La Bouqueria. What a busy and exciting world! Here are a few images that portray the feeling of being there.

Las Ramblas:

La Boqueria:

It was on a side street off the main drag that I saw Güell Palace designed by Antoni Gaudí in the late 1800s as a mansion for wealthy industrialist. It is the only building Gaudi' ever fully finished. The exterior was a beautifully wrought and well-crafted Art Nouveau style. Below are images of the exterior, interior and the whimsical chimneys on the roof.

In Barcelona art abounds. Art exists naturally in the culture. I was so impressed with some of the visual art I saw on Las Ramblas and other places, my regard for Barcelona shifted from a way to depart for home to one of wanting to come back and take art classes. And so I left Spain with a backward glance and a desire to strong desire to return for a longer stay.

Spain, Portugal and Islam

Since first seeing Islamic tiles, I've been drawn to the style.  I was enchanted by the stylized works of nature and the geometric patterns.

During my college years, I took a class in Islamic Art and Architecture, made molds of Islamic tiles in clay class and created a book of Islamic floral designs for a class assignment.  The period that most fascinated was the height of the Islamic age in Spain.

For many years, I've dreamed going to Spain. More specifically my dreams were to visit the Southern region that Muslims named "Al-Andalus." (Now referred to as Andalucia) This year, it is finally happening and I am trying to hold back my excitement.

My airplane reservations are made - fly into Madrid, exit via Barcelona. Now it's time for some serious planning as I'm told that purchasing Eurail and Alhambra tickets in advance are a must. There's a bit of time to plan since I'm not leaving until Autumn.

At this point, the itinerary is a little loose. Here's my tentative plans in order to avoid doubling back: Overnight train from Madrid to Lisbon, bus Lisbon to Seville, bus Seville to Cordoba, bus Cordoba to Granada, train Granada to Madrid, train Madrid to Barcelona.


Now, Dear Reader, this is where you can help me solidify my itinerary: If you have suggestions for transportation, lodging, food, sight-seeing, eateries, and colorful markets, I'd like to have your recommendations.